The Benefits of HSAs: Can a High-Deductible Health Plan (HDHP) Be Right for You?
October 18, 2024
Choosing the right health insurance plan for yourself or your family is one of your most important financial decisions.
With a range of plans available through your employer (or the
Marketplace), navigating the complexities of healthcare coverage can feel overwhelming. Each plan comes with its trade-offs, and comparing premiums, co-pays, coinsurance, deductibles, and out-of-pocket expenses to determine what’s best for you and your family is no easy feat.
One health insurance option to consider is a high-deductible health plan (HDHP), especially when it’s paired with a health savings account (HSA). These plans have become more common as health insurance costs continue to rise, and they can be a great fit if you’re seeking both flexibility and financial savings in your healthcare coverage.
What is a High-Deductible Health Plan (HDHP)?
High-deductible health plans (HDHPs) are defined by their higher deductibles compared to traditional health plans — you pay more out-of-pocket for healthcare services before your insurance covers the costs. HDHPs have higher allowable deductibles and out-of-pocket maximums than traditional plans, and the IRS sets the guidelines for these amounts.
For 2024, the HDHP minimum deductible is $1,600 for an individual and $3,200 for a family; these amounts increase to $1,650 for individuals and $3,300 for families in 2025. The 2024 maximum out-of-pocket limit is $8,050 for individual coverage, and $16,100 for family coverage (increasing to $8,300 and $16,600 in 2025).
One of the biggest draws of HDHPs is their lower premium payments: while you’ll pay more upfront for healthcare costs, the reduced monthly premium can help offset some of that expense. An HDHP shifts the financial burden from the plan’s monthly cost of coverage to its deductible. So if you don’t anticipate significant healthcare needs for yourself or your family, this can potentially lead to sizable savings over time.
When considering an HDHP, it’s important to weigh the financial trade-offs; yes, you’ll pay less in premiums, but you’ll have to be prepared to handle higher out-of-pocket expenses if you need medical care. Can you pay these higher costs, or would a more predictable, lower-deductible traditional plan better fit your financial situation?
When Is an HDHP a Good Choice?
Here are key situations where an HDHP might be the best option:
- Low Medical Utilization: If you and your family are generally healthy and rarely use medical services aside from the occasional check-up and preventative care, an HDHP can significantly lower your healthcare costs. You won’t be paying higher premiums every month for services you don’t use, and you’ll have extra savings for future healthcare expenses or medical needs.
- Financial Stability: If you can comfortably afford to pay the higher deductible and you have a financial cushion for unexpected medical expenses, then the lower premiums of an HDHP can offer you substantial savings in the long run. HDHPs work best if you have financial flexibility.
- Long-term Saver: By saving the difference between premiums and contributing it to a health savings account (HSA), you can accumulate a tax-advantaged nest egg for future healthcare expenses (or even retirement). Effectively managing your healthcare spending and contributing consistently to an HSA can help you build savings.
- Younger Populations: Younger individuals are less likely to require significant medical care, and can take full advantage of the lower premiums without worrying about meeting the high deductibles. If you’re young and healthy, an HDHP with an HSA can be a smart way to save on healthcare costs while still being covered for medical emergencies.
Health Savings Accounts (HSAs) and HDHPs
Health savings accounts (HSAs) are a key component to HDHPs — they not only offer you tax advantages but also the ability to save for future health care expenses. HSAs are available only if you’re enrolled in an HDHP, as they’re designed to help offset the higher out-of-pocket costs of these plans.
An HSA allows you to save pre-tax money, which grows tax-free over time. When you withdraw funds to pay for qualified medical expenses (including deductibles, co-pays, and coinsurance), your withdrawals are tax-free. After the age of 65, HSA withdrawals can be used for any purpose, but non-qualified withdrawals will be taxed as income.
HSA contribution limits are also set by the IRS: for 2024, individuals can contribute up to $4,150 to an HSA, while families can contribute up to $8,300. In 2025, those amounts increase to $4,300 for individuals and $8,550 for families. If you’re age 55 and over, you can contribute an additional $1,000 annually. With these limits, you can establish a substantial healthcare safety net.
What Are the Benefits of HSAs?
HSAs can benefit you beyond just helping you pay for healthcare costs; they can also be a powerful tool for building long-term savings and planning for retirement:
- Triple Tax Advantage: Your contributions to your HSA are tax-deductible, they grow tax-free, and your withdrawals for qualified expenses are tax-free. These tax advantages make an HSA one of the most effective financial tools for managing medical costs.
- Long-Term Savings Potential: Unlike flexible spending accounts (FSAs) that have a “use it or lose it” policy, your unused HSA funds roll over year after year, which enables you to accumulate savings. Over time, your HSA can help you save long-term for healthcare costs and retirement.
- Preparation for Healthcare Needs: Medical care is one of the biggest expenses in retirement, and an HSA can help you plan for your future healthcare needs. By consistently funding your HSA account, you can create a financial buffer for medical expenses when you’re retired.
Can a HDHP Be Right for You?
Deciding whether an HDHP is right for you or your family depends on your healthcare needs, financial situation, and long-term savings goals. Take the time to assess your needs carefully and review your healthcare plan options.
Are you young and healthy, with minimal healthcare needs? An HDHP with an HSA can be perfect for building savings while maintaining affordable coverage. But if you or your family have frequent medical visits, a traditional plan may be a better fit with its lower deductibles, despite the higher premiums.
At
Five Pine Wealth Management, we have the knowledge and experience to help you evaluate your healthcare needs, risk tolerance, and financial situation to see if an HDHP is right for you and if an HSA can fit into your long-term financial plan. With our holistic approach, we can help you decide what’s best for both your health and your finances.
To see how we can help you,
email us or give us a call at 877.333.1015 today.
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Key Takeaways High earners maxing out 401(k)s at $24,500 are only saving about 8% of a $300,000 income in their primary retirement account. The mega backdoor Roth strategy can increase total 401(k) contributions to $72,000 annually with tax-free growth. A comprehensive approach can create nearly $3 million in additional retirement wealth over 20 years. It's 2026. You're checking all the boxes. You're earning upwards of $300,000 annually, and you're maxing out your 401(k) every year. You've reached the $24,500 contribution limit and feel confident about securing your financial future. Then you realize $24,500 represents less than 8% of your income. Over 20 years, this gap adds up to millions in lost opportunity. Thankfully, you're not stuck with the basic 401(k) playbook. There are sophisticated strategies beyond your contribution limit. 5 Strategic Moves for High Earners with Maxed-Out 401(k)s Here are five sophisticated strategies that can help you build wealth beyond your basic 401(k) contributions. All projections assume a 7% average annual return and are estimates for illustrative purposes. 1. Mega Backdoor Roth Contributions If your employer's 401(k) plan allows after-tax contributions, this could be your biggest opportunity. With employee contributions, employer match, and after-tax contributions, the combined 401(k) limit for 2026 is $72,000 ($80,000 if you're 50 or older). The mega backdoor Roth works because you immediately convert those after-tax contributions into a Roth account, where they grow tax-free forever. The catch: Not all employers offer this option. You need a plan that permits after-tax contributions and in-service Roth conversions. The impact: The available space for after-tax contributions depends on your employer match. With a typical employer match of 3-6% (roughly $10,000-$21,000 on a $350,000 salary), you could contribute approximately $26,500-$37,000 annually. At 7% average returns over 20 years, this creates approximately $1.1-$1.5 million in additional tax-free retirement savings. 2. Donor-Advised Funds for Charitable Giving If you're charitably inclined, donor-advised funds (DAFs) offer a way to bunch several years of charitable contributions into one tax year, maximizing your itemized deductions while still spreading your giving over time. You get an immediate tax deduction for the full contribution, but you can recommend grants to charities over many years. The funds grow tax-free in the meantime. The catch: Once you contribute to a DAF, the money is irrevocably committed to charity. You can't get it back for personal use. The impact: Contributing $50,000 to a DAF in a high-income year (versus giving $10,000 annually) can create immediate federal tax savings of $15,000-$18,500 while still allowing you to support the same charities over five years. 3. Taxable Brokerage Accounts with Tax-Loss Harvesting Once you've maximized tax-advantaged accounts, strategic taxable investing becomes your next move. The key is working with a financial advisor who implements systematic tax-loss harvesting throughout the year. Tax-loss harvesting involves selling investments at a loss to offset capital gains elsewhere. Done strategically, this can save thousands in taxes annually. The catch: Long-term capital gain rates (0%, 15%, or 20%) are lower than ordinary income tax rates, but you're still paying taxes on gains. It's less tax-efficient than retirement accounts, but far better than ignoring tax optimization. The impact: For high earners in the 35-37% ordinary income brackets, the difference between long-term capital gains (20%) and ordinary rates is significant. Effective tax-loss harvesting on $50,000 in annual gains over 20 years could save $150,000+ in taxes. 4. Health Savings Account (HSA) Triple Tax Advantage HSAs offer a unique triple tax benefit: tax-deductible contributions, tax-free growth, and tax-free withdrawals for qualified medical expenses. With 2026 contribution limits of $4,400 for individuals and $8,750 for families, this adds another powerful layer to your strategy. You can invest HSA funds just like an IRA and let them grow for decades. After age 65, you can withdraw the funds for any purpose, medical or otherwise. The catch: You must have a high-deductible health plan to qualify for an HSA. After age 65, non-medical withdrawals are taxed as ordinary income (like traditional IRA distributions), but you still benefit from the upfront deduction and decades of tax-free growth. The impact: Contributing the family maximum ($8,750) annually for 20 years at a 7% average annual return creates approximately $355,000-$360,000 in tax-advantaged savings. 5. Backdoor Roth IRA Contributions Not to be confused with mega backdoor Roth contributions! Even if your income exceeds the Roth IRA contribution limits, you can still fund a Roth through the backdoor method: make a non-deductible contribution to a traditional IRA, then immediately convert it to a Roth IRA. The catch: If you have existing traditional IRA balances, the pro-rata rule complicates things. You may want to consider rolling those funds into your 401(k) first if your plan allows. The impact: Contributing $7,000 annually through the backdoor Roth for 20 years at 7% average annual return creates approximately $285,000-$290,000 in tax-free retirement savings. What Compounding These Strategies Looks Like Over 20 Years Let’s look at approximate outcomes based on a 7% average annual return. 401(k) Only: Annual contribution: $24,500 Total after 20 years: ~$1M 401(k) + Mega Backdoor Roth: Annual contribution: $72,000 Total after 20 years: ~$3M Note: Mega backdoor Roth space varies based on your employer's match. These calculations assume you're maximizing the total annual limit. Comprehensive Approach (under age 50): Mega Backdoor Roth: ~$3.0M HSA: ~$350K-$360K Backdoor Roth IRA: ~$285K-$290K Strategic taxable investing with tax-loss harvesting Total retirement savings: ~$3.6M+, plus taxable investments Comprehensive Approach (ages 50-59): With higher contribution limits and catch-up contributions, total retirement savings can reach ~$4M+ over 20 years. Comprehensive Approach (ages 60–63 with enhanced catch-up contributions) Higher contribution limits during peak earning years allow for meaningful acceleration of retirement savings. The exact impact depends on timing, contribution duration, and existing balances. The Bottom Line The difference between stopping at your basic 401(k) and implementing a comprehensive strategy can approach $3 million or more in additional retirement wealth over time. Why Strategic Coordination Matters These aren't either/or decisions. The most effective approach coordinates multiple strategies while ensuring everything works together. At Five Pine Wealth Management , we help high-earning clients build comprehensive plans that go beyond the 401(k). We coordinate your employer benefits, tax strategies, and investment accounts to create a cohesive approach that maximizes your wealth-building potential. This requires working across several areas: Analyzing your employer's 401(k) plan for mega backdoor Roth opportunities Implementing systematic tax-loss harvesting in taxable accounts Coordinating Roth conversions and backdoor contributions Optimizing your HSA as a long-term retirement vehicle Ensuring charitable giving strategies align with your tax situation Maximizing catch-up contributions when you reach milestone ages As fiduciary advisors, we're legally obligated to act in your best interest. That means we're focused on strategies that serve your goals, not products that generate commissions. Ready to see what's possible beyond your 401(k)? Email us at info@fivepinewealth.com or call 877.333.1015 to schedule a conversation about your specific situation. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) Q: Does my employer's 401(k) plan automatically allow mega backdoor Roth contributions? A: No. You need a plan that permits after-tax contributions and in-service conversions to Roth. Check with your HR department. Q: How do I prioritize which investment strategies to use? A: Generally, maximize employer match first (it's free money), then fully fund your 401(k), explore Mega Backdoor Roth if available, max out your HSA, consider backdoor Roth IRA contributions, and then move to taxable accounts with tax-loss harvesting. We can help determine the right sequence for your circumstances.
Key Takeaways Your guaranteed income sources (pensions, Social Security) matter more than your age when deciding allocation. Retiring at 65 doesn't mean your timeline ends. You likely have 20-30 years of investing ahead. Think in time buckets: near-term stability, mid-term balance, long-term growth. You're 55 years old with over a million dollars saved for retirement. Your 401(k) statements arrive each month, and you find yourself questioning whether your current allocation still makes sense. Should you be moving everything to bonds? Keeping it all in stocks? Something in between? There's no single "correct" asset allocation for everyone in this position. What works for you depends on factors unique to your situation: your retirement income sources, spending needs, and risk tolerance. Let's look at what matters most as you approach this major life transition. Why Asset Allocation Changes as Retirement Approaches When you’re 30 or 40, your investment timeline stretches decades into the future. When you’re 55 and looking to retire at 65, that equation changes because you’re no longer just building wealth: you’re preparing to start spending it. You need enough growth to keep pace with inflation and fund decades of retirement, but you also need stability to avoid the need to sell investments during market downturns. At this point, asset allocation 10 years before retirement is more nuanced than a simple “more conservative” approach. Understanding Your Actual Time Horizon Hitting retirement age doesn't make your investment timeline shrink to zero. If you retire at 65 and live to 90, that's a 25-year investment horizon. Think about your money in buckets based on when you'll need it: Time Horizon Investment Approach Example Needs Short-Term (Years 1-5 of Retirement) Stable & accessible funds Monthly living expenses, healthcare costs, and early travel plans Medium-Term (Years 6-15) Moderate risk; balanced growth Home repairs, care and income replacement, and helping grandchildren with college Long-Term (Years 16+) Growth-oriented with a Long-term care expenses, decades-long timeline legacy planning, and extended longevity needs This bucket approach helps you think beyond simple stock-versus-bond percentages. Asset Allocation 10 Years Before Retirement: Starting Points While there's no one-size-fits-all answer, here are some reasonable starting frameworks: Conservative Approach (60% stocks / 40% bonds) : Makes sense if you have minimal guaranteed income or plan to begin drawing heavily from your portfolio upon retirement. Moderate Approach (70% stocks / 30% bonds) : Works well for those with some guaranteed income sources, moderate risk tolerance, and a flexible withdrawal strategy. Growth-Oriented Approach (80% stocks / 20% bonds) : Can be appropriate if you have substantial guaranteed income covering basic expenses and the flexibility to reduce spending temporarily as needed. Remember, these are starting points for discussion, not recommendations. 3 Steps to Evaluate Your Current Allocation Ready to see if your current allocation still makes sense? Here's how to start: Step 1: Calculate your current stock/bond split. Pull your recent statements and add up everything in stocks (including mutual funds and ETFs) versus bonds. Divide each by your total portfolio to get percentages. Step 2: List your guaranteed retirement income. Write down income sources that aren't portfolio-dependent: Social Security (estimate at ssa.gov), pensions, annuities, rental income, or planned part-time work. Total the monthly amount. Step 3: Calculate your coverage gap. Estimate monthly retirement expenses, then subtract your guaranteed income. If guaranteed income covers 70-80%+ of expenses, you can be more growth-oriented. Under 50% coverage means you'll need a more balanced approach. When to Adjust Your Allocation Here are specific triggers that signal it's time to review and potentially adjust: Your allocation has drifted more than 5% from target. If you started at 70/30 stocks to bonds and market movements have pushed you to 77/23, it's time to rebalance back to your target. Your retirement timeline changes significantly. Planning to retire at 60 instead of 65? That's a trigger. Every two years of timeline shift warrants a fresh look at your allocation. Major health changes occur. A serious diagnosis that changes your life expectancy or healthcare costs should prompt an allocation review. You gain or lose a guaranteed income source. Inheriting a pension through remarriage, losing expected Social Security benefits through divorce, or discovering your pension is underfunded. Market volatility affects your sleep. If you're checking your portfolio daily and feeling genuine anxiety about normal market movements, your allocation might be too aggressive for your comfort, and that's a valid reason to adjust. Beyond Stocks and Bonds Modern retirement planning involves more than just deciding your stock-to-bond ratio. Consider international diversification (20-30% of your stock allocation), real estate exposure through REITs, cash reserves covering 1-2 years of spending, and income-producing investments such as dividend-paying stocks. The Biggest Mistake: Becoming Too Conservative Too Soon Moving everything to bonds at 55 might feel safer, but it creates two significant problems. First, you're almost guaranteeing that inflation will outpace your returns over a 30-year retirement. Second, you're missing a decade of potential growth during your peak earning and saving years. The difference between 60% and 80% stock allocation over 10 years can mean hundreds of thousands of dollars in portfolio value. Being too conservative can be just as risky as being too aggressive, just in different ways. Questions to Ask Yourself As you think about your asset allocation for the next 10 years: What percentage of my retirement spending will be covered by Social Security, pensions, or other guaranteed income? How flexible is my retirement budget? Could I reduce spending by 10-20% during a market downturn? What's my emotional reaction to seeing my portfolio drop 20% or more? Do I plan to leave money to heirs, or is my goal to spend most of it during retirement? Your honest answers to these questions matter more than your age or any generic allocation rule. Work With Professionals Who Understand Your Complete Picture At Five Pine Wealth Management, we help clients work through these decisions by looking at their complete financial picture. We stress-test different allocation strategies against various market scenarios, coordinate withdrawal strategies with tax planning, and help clients understand the trade-offs between different approaches. If you're within 10 years of retirement and wondering whether your current allocation still makes sense, let's talk. Email us at info@fivepinewealth.com or call 877.333.1015 to schedule a conversation. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) Q: What is the rule of thumb for asset allocation by age? A: Traditional rules like "subtract your age from 100" are oversimplified. Your allocation should be based on your guaranteed income sources, spending flexibility, and risk tolerance; not just your age. Q: Should I move my 401(k) to bonds before retirement? A: Not entirely. You still need growth to outpace inflation. Gradually shift toward a balanced allocation (60-80% stocks, depending on your situation) and keep 1-2 years of expenses in stable investments. Q: What's the difference between stocks and bonds in a retirement portfolio? A: Stocks provide growth potential to keep pace with inflation but come with volatility. Bonds offer stability and income but typically don't grow as much.
